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Cuba's third-largest city is easily the suavest and most sophisticated after Havana. The arts shine bright here and it's also the bastion of the Catholic Church on the island. Well known for going their own way in times of crisis, its resilient citizens are called agramontinos by other Cubans, after local First War of Independence hero Ignacio Agramonte, coauthor of the Guáimaro constitution and courageous leader of Cuba's finest cavalry brigade.
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Around 600m west of the frenzy of República sits another sublimely beautiful square, one less visited than the central plazas. It's backed on the eastern…
Museo Provincial Ignacio Agramonte
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Named (like half of 䲹ü) after the exalted local War of Independence hero, this cavernous museum, just north of the train station, is in a Spanish…
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䲹ü is home to two of Cuba's most creative and prodigious contemporary painters, Joel Jover and his wife Ileana Sánchez. Their magnificent home in…
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In Cuba's ceramics capital, the studio-gallery of Martha Jiménez Pérez shows the work of one of Cuba's greatest living artists. See everything from pots…
Museo Casa Natal de Ignacio Agramonte
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The birthplace of independence hero Ignacio Agramonte (1841–73), the cattle rancher who led the 䲹ü area's revolt against Spain. The house – an…
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This sea of elaborate, lop-sided, bleached-white Gothic tombs makes up Cuba's most underrated cemetery, secreting the resting place of 䲹ü-born…
Mercado Agropecuario Hatibonico
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If you visit just one market in Cuba, make it this muddy one. Beside the murky Río Hatibonico just off the Carretera Central, and characterized by its…
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Cuba's largest urban park sits across the Río Hatibonico from the old town, and was laid out in 1860. There are shaded benches, a baseball stadium,…
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